My grandmothers were in my kitchen today. Both have been gone for a long time, but still both were in my kitchen today. My mother’s
mother was not a particularly religious woman as near as I could tell but my
grandfather was and she was supportive. And she had her staple dishes that
marked every holiday – most notably knishes. My father’s mother loved to feed
us. The amount of food that she could generate on about 4 minutes notice was
truly unbelievable and she always had trays of sweets – coffee cake and rugalach.
And today while fasting for Yom Kippur, my kids and I cooked
and baked all afternoon. An odd sequence while hungry but we had places to go
tonight to break the fast and it passed the time. We baked an apple crisp from
the remaining apples from apple picking a few weeks ago. My mother’s mother
never let anything go to waste. She had all sorts of contortions for green
tomatoes because they couldn’t go to waste and so – as I cut the bad sections
off these aging apples to put them into the final apple crisp of our bag –
there was my grandmother, in my kitchen.
My son asked out of the blue, if we could make rugalach. I’ve
never made rugalach. I had always thought it was hard, but it was something my grandmothers
had made. I was game and we tried to figure it out. And
again, my 8 year old, reading The Joy of Cooking figured out how to apply the
jam and rolled the pieces and we placed them on the tray. After break fast, I
popped one in my mouth – and it is confirmed, my grandmother was in my kitchen
today, whispering in my son’s ear, baking as good as always.
And we made a kugel. I asked my mother a few years ago for a
kugel recipe and she first sent me a page of a cookbook. I clarified – I don’t
want a kugel – I want your kugel. And so she sent me a photo of the recipe card.
It has no directions – just ingredients and is stained with food. When I need
to make it, I have to find the photo on my phone and remember the parts that
aren’t listed on the card plus the adaptions my fans request – more raisins, a
touch more sugar. My daughter stirred all the ingredients together and then my
house filled with that smell as it baked.
Traditions are a funny thing. They often start almost by
accident. I cooked today because frankly I didn’t have time before this
afternoon. Actually, the same thing happened last year and the year before on Yom Kippur. So the
kitchen in my house on Yom Kippur afternoon, is often a bustling place and I
suspect that will often be the case. And it was so crowded today because those
notions of what holidays mean, what connections mean come not just from the rules
but from the smells, and the tastes and the experiences.
The past, the present and the future were all in my kitchen
today and it was just delightful.

